Japan in Autumn

Autumn in Japan is a seasonally specific thing. The Japanese have a word, momiji, for the act of viewing the autumn leaves — it is not just description, it is purpose.

Kyoto's temples do not disappoint, but the crowds are relentless. The solution is early mornings: arriving at Fushimi Inari before 6 AM means having the orange torii gates almost entirely to yourself.

Nikko, further north and higher in elevation, turned colour earlier. The Tosho-gu shrine complex sits in a forest of ancient cedars, the red lacquerwork contrasting with the gold and rust of the surrounding trees.